Fruits, flowers, festivities at Goa's Sao Joao

It’s time to celebrate the rich biodiversity of fruits and flowers from the Konkan coast at the popular Sao Joao festival. Celebrated on June 24 annually, it’s the time when Goa bursts into revelry, with boat parades, floral crown (kopel) contests, music, feasting on fruits, and the joyful tradition of jumping into wells, ponds and rivers.

One of the few Catholic feasts that marks a saint’s birth, Sao Joao honours St John the Baptist, the cousin of Jesus Christ.

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The traditional fruit platter, or dhali, features a mix of jackfruit carpels, mangoes and bananas — often cut for convenience, allowing revellers to sample a bit of everything. 

The tri-phal of ambe, ponnos and kellim — mangoes, jackfruit and bananas — is often celebrated with cashew feni, the spiritually uplifting tipple, before setting off in search of teifoll (Zanthoxylum rhetsa) for the fottas at Divar’s Bonderam festival.

The traditional fruit platter, or dhali, features a mix of jackfruit carpels, mangoes and bananas — often cut for convenience, allowing revellers to sample a bit of everything.

The month of June is the peak season for the Manga Hilario (or Mangilar) mango that originated in Fernandes vaddo of Siolim (North Goa) on the banks of the River Chapora, which hosts the boat parade. 

This parade owes its revival to Siolcars, cartoonist Alexyz (from Bamonvaddo), Alister Miranda (from Gaunsavaddo-Sodiem) and Remo Fernandes (from Fornavaddo), all in Siolim, and Joel D’Souza (from Assagao, the valley of flowers). 

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FESTIVE PLATTER

The essential elements of the dhali are mangoes, jackfruit and bananas. Bananas are available all year round, and the Myndoli variety have a ‘Geographic Indication’ (or GI tag for Goa) just like cashew feniby the launni process.

Goa, however, does not have a named jackfruit variety, although Nicholas Sequeira of Sonarbhat (Saligao) has a promising type, while Nella Miranda (from Orlim) has an early-bearing type.

The jackfruit is the main fruit of the Sao Joao festivities in Goa. From 2015 to 2019, it was the focus of the ‘Ponnsachem Fest’ in Socorro (North Goa) and the Vangodd de Saligao, where else? Both events were suspended during the COVID-19 pandemic and haven’t resumed since.

This parade owes its revival to Siolcars, cartoonist Alexyz (from Bamonvaddo), Alister Miranda (from Gaunsavaddo-Sodiem) and Remo Fernandes (from Fornavaddo), all in Siolim, and Joel D’Souza (from Assagao).

The Vietnam Early and other golden fleshed varieties, as well as Daeng Surya, a red to orange-fleshed jackfruitvariety from Thailand, are now grown in Goa.

The salmon to coppery red-fleshed ‘Siddu’ variety from Tumkur-Karnataka, is registered under No 348 of 2020 and legally protected under the Protection of Plant Varieties & Farmers Rights Act (PPVFRA), just like the The Cardozo mango variety is native to Goa. It produces medium-sized fruits weighing between 10 to 15 kg, compared to larger local varieties that can reach up to 35 kg. It is gaining popularity for its uniquely coloured pulp.

Interestingly, jackfruit plants can bear fruit even when grown in large pots.

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CROWNING GLORY

The kopel which is an inseparable part of the Sao Joao festivities, is limited only by one’s imagination. 

Almost every vine, flower and fruit of the seasonfinds place in the kopel. The ornamental pink cherries, Carissa carandas; the bouquet fern of different Asparagus species creepers; Allamanda buttercups; while Ixora and Pentas flowers are the favourites. 

Some people even add fragrant jasmines, champac (of both, Sonn Chamfo (Michelia champaca) and Plumeria alba (Temple trees)) to tease your senses beyond the visuals. 

The kopel which is an inseparable part of the Sao Joao festivities, is limited only by one’s imagination. Almost every vine, flower and fruit of the season finds place in the kopel.

A pyramid of divli  flowers(Clerodendron paniculatum), can be seen occasionally in the kopel along with Glory Bower (Clerodendron splendens) vine and flowers. 

Flower spathes of anthuriums and calla lilies (Zantedeschia species) add elegance to some of the more stylish kopels crafted for competitions. Why not see them for yourself in Siolim, Chinvar-Anjuna, or at a celebration near you on June 24.

(The author is the former Chairman of the GCCI Agriculture Committee, CEO of Planter's Choice Pvt Ltd, Additional Director of OFAI and Garden Superintendent of Goa University, and has edited 18 books for Goa & Konkan)